Korean Double Cleansing, Explained: The Two-Step Glow

My little sister sent me a photo last month of a cotton pad, grey with foundation, that she'd swiped over her face after she had already washed it. One foaming wash after a day of sunscreen and concealer rarely gets everything. That's the gap Korean double cleansing fills.

The idea is small. Sunscreen, makeup and the oil your skin makes all cling together during the day, and oily stuff dissolves best in something oily. So you start with an oil, milk, water or balm cleanser to melt that layer, then follow with a water-based wash that clears sweat, dust and whatever the first step loosened.

First, the melting step

The first cleanse goes on dry skin (except cleansing water, which goes on a cotton pad). Massage, add a splash of water so it turns milky, rinse. Pick whichever texture you'll actually use at 11pm. If balms are your thing, I put together a separate list of Korean cleansing balms.

The black oil I was suspicious of

Black Volcanic PHA Pore Clarifying Cleansing Oil (200ml) by Innisfree at Baerry — Black Volcanic PHA Pore Clarifying Cleansing Oil (200ml)

The first time I pumped the Innisfree Black Volcanic PHA Pore Clarifying Cleansing Oil into my hand I thought something had gone wrong. It's black, and it's more of a smooth gel-oil than a runny one.

One or two pumps on dry skin takes off heavy makeup in one go. Innisfree says the emulsified particles are small enough to go after blackheads, and my nose does look less speckly when I use it regularly. It also went through an alternative eye irritation test, which I appreciate since I rub it straight over mascara.

For sunscreen-only days

Pure Soybean Cleansing Milk (200ml) by manyo at Baerry — Pure Soybean Cleansing Milk (200ml)

Most weekdays I'm wearing sunscreen and maybe a bit of brow gel, nothing that needs an oil. That's when I grab the ma:nyo Pure Soybean Cleansing Milk. You massage it onto dry skin for about a minute, then rinse or just wipe it off with a tissue.

It takes off makeup and sunscreen and leaves my face comfortable rather than squeaky. Manyo actually suggests following it with a foam for an extra fresh feel, which is double cleansing in a nutshell.

When I can't face the sink

Pure Soybean Cleansing Water (500ml) by manyo at Baerry — Pure Soybean Cleansing Water (500ml)

My commute home is a 50-minute bus ride, and some nights I walk in and do not want to stand at the bathroom sink. The ma:nyo Pure Soybean Cleansing Water goes on a cotton pad, and you wipe your face following the direction of your skin. For eye makeup, hold the soaked pad on your lids for five to ten seconds first so you aren't scrubbing.

It's made for sensitive skin, and it leaves my face hydrated instead of tight. The 500ml bottle lasts ages.

Then the second wash

Step two is a water-based cleanser on damp skin: a foam, a powder, a chewy mochi bar, or a pack-style wash you can leave on briefly. The first step already did the heavy lifting, so this one can be gentle.

A foam that feels like jam

Peach Niacin Spread Cleansing Foam (150ml) by Anua at Baerry — Peach Niacin Spread Cleansing Foam (150ml)

The Anua Peach Niacin Spread Cleansing Foam has this soft, juicy texture that looks like peach spread when it comes out of the tube. Work it between your palms in circles and it turns into a rich foam.

It's slightly acidic and has niacinamide, so it's aimed at dullness and that rough, built-up feeling. No tight, sticky aftermath. This is my everyday second cleanse.

Is it soap? Is it a rice cake?

Fresh Rosehip Rice Mochi Cleanser (120g) by Arencia at Baerry — Fresh Rosehip Rice Mochi Cleanser (120g)

I bought the Arencia Fresh Rosehip Rice Mochi Cleanser for the texture. It's chewy, kneaded over a thousand times according to Arencia, and you scoop a coin-sized piece and roll it with water in your palm.

It has rosehip, pink aloe and chamomile, and the base uses glycerin instead of purified water, so my face doesn't feel stripped afterwards. Arencia also suggests using it as a short pack, left on for a minute or two before you rinse.

My Sunday powder

Rice Enzyme Brightening Cleansing Powder (40g) by Anua at Baerry — Rice Enzyme Brightening Cleansing Powder (40g)

The Anua Rice Enzyme Brightening Cleansing Powder is the one I save for Sunday evenings. Shake a little into wet hands, mix it into a paste with water, and massage it over damp skin. It's a gentle exfoliating cleanser with rice extract and ceramide, fragrance-free and not drying, and it smooths those tiny bumps on my forehead.

Mixed thicker, it doubles as a mask you leave on for five to ten minutes.

If powders sound fiddly

Sangback Enzyme Pack Cleanser (100ml) by ONEOHOH at Baerry — Sangback Enzyme Pack Cleanser (100ml)

I'll admit I've spilled enzyme powder all over the bathroom counter more than once. The ONEOHOH Sangback Enzyme Pack Cleanser puts the enzyme idea into a rich clay texture in a tube instead.

It uses protease, an enzyme that helps loosen dead skin, plus mulberry root extract for a brighter look. You can lather it as a normal wash, or smooth it on wet skin, leave it briefly, then massage with water until it makes fine bubbles and rinse.

Once the two steps feel normal, you stop thinking about them. If you want more on the method, I'd read 13 things you should know about double cleansing, or browse all of Baerry's cleansers.

FAQ

Moet ik elke dag dubbel reinigen?

Alleen op dagen dat je zonnebrandcrème of make-up draagt. Op dagen zonder, volstaat meestal één keer zachtjes reinigen met een water-based reiniger.

Kan dubbel reinigen mijn huid uitdrogen?

Dat zou niet moeten gebeuren als je een voedende of kalmerende balm combineert met een milde tweede reiniger met een lage pH. Een uitgedroogde huid ontstaat meestal doordat beide stappen te agressief zijn, of doordat je vaker dan twee keer per dag reinigt.

Wat is het verschil tussen een cleansing oil en een cleansing balm?

Oliën zijn vloeibaar en verspreiden zich snel, terwijl balsems bij kamertemperatuur vast zijn en smelten zodra ze warme huid raken. Daardoor zijn ze makkelijker onder controle te houden en minder knoeierig voor beginners.

Moet ik 's ochtends ook dubbel reinigen?

Meestal niet nodig — 's ochtends is een snelle, milde reiniging op waterbasis voldoende om nachtelijk zweet en eventuele productresten te verwijderen, tenzij je met make-up of SPF hebt geslapen.

Kan ik voor beide stappen dezelfde cleanser gebruiken?

Nee — de eerste stap heeft een olie- of balsembasis nodig om make-up en SPF op te lossen, terwijl de tweede stap een formule op waterbasis nodig heeft om alles zonder residu weg te spoelen.

Written by Hyerin Park

Hyerin has always loved shopping—fashion, beauty, and pretty much anything worth adding to cart. Since starting Baerry, that habit has turned into testing dozens of new beauty products that land on the team’s desks in Seoul, plus plenty she buys herself. An ISTJ with a very high bar for what makes the cut, she treats her own face as the testing ground before recommending anything.